Romance is in the air at Cushnie. The label has become recognizable for designer Carly Cushnie’s modernist hand. Her clothes are angular and form-flattering; more often than not, her silhouettes borrow from the edges of architectural wonders and contemporary art. For pre-fall, however, Cushnie pivoted a bit to focus on more ornamental detailing. She looked to 18th-century French aristocratic garb, as well as rococo interiors, and palatial, manicured gardens, but she did the Marie Antoinette thing her own way. She also referenced the architect I.M. Pei, specifically his iconic glass pyramid at the Louvre, juxtaposing the delicate angles and lines of the building with rich tapestries and trimmings. The clever contrasts were compelling.
It was plain to see that Cushnie had fun designing this pre-fall wardrobe. She doesn’t usually experiment with volume, so ballooning skirts on minidresses and puffed-up, off-the-shoulder necklines were a welcome bit of drama. So too were the sculptural bow details on blush pink slips and cocktail dresses, and the soft blue and sand-color rococo print on a jumpsuit and a drawstring skirt. The balance of hard and soft was well-executed. In fashion, the Marie Antoinette call-out can be overused but Cushnie made these colors, shapes, and patterns feel fresh.
