Serenity is the new luxury. A year of frenzied schedules and alarmist news has many craving the calming effects of simplicity, and this season Christian Siriano is one of them. The designer knows a thing or two about the 24-hour work cycle—his pre-fall showings fell days before the premiere of Project Runway—and as such, he gravitated toward tranquil themes. Interiors, particularly the work of Giancarlo Valle, the architect and interior designer whose studio specializes in artsy spaces with lived-in charm, served as the starting point for a stripped-down collection of separates in shades of slate, cream, and black. The lineup was a 180 from his vibrant Ashley Longshore–influenced spring look, and the change felt significant. A reflection of both his current mood and pre-fall’s increased retail importance, the switch to neutrals was a departure.
Without punchy color to add vigor to his designs, Siriano relied on interesting fabrications and techniques to spice up the wealth of black and beige. The tactile pleasure of knits with teddy bear texture or faux-fur crop tops is instantly evident, but the real fun came via croc-stamped miniskirts and matching blazers with ’80s-style wide collars and puffed sleeves. Transparency added oomph to basic black, and pants, skirts, and corsets were all offered in see-through versions. The trick to neutrals is offering something that isn’t already hanging in a customer’s closet, and except for standards like marabou-accented cocktail dresses, Siriano did just that.
With awards season looming, Siriano used pre-fall to update his vision for after-hours. Given that he’s best known for outfitting his coterie of famous muses in high-drama pieces that require little extra adornment, his outlook seemed comparatively subdued. White columns fit for the bridal season, sweeping black gowns with bell sleeves and high collars, and the occasional flourish of tulle ruffles in smoke gray or millennial pink made for a collection that aimed for glamour that avoided ostentation. After seasons focused on excess, that may be just the palate-cleanser Siriano and his customers are craving.
