Pre-fall is one of Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s favorite collections of the year. “It’s a chance to reaffirm what Chloé stands for, its essence as I see it. It’s more concentrated,” she explained during a recent showroom tour. In other words, she feels liberated from any need to spin far-out tales: the clothes are the story. Be they serene and relaxed, masculine and feminine, or straight-up romantic, they are “there to be worn, and for a long time,” the designer said.
In the three years since she arrived at the house, Ramsay-Levi has figured out what she wants to say and how she wants to say it. To that end, she has defined a growing core of softly tailored, urban perennials that her base loves. The Chloé blouse is a constant, bien sûr, but the designer keeps it on the more compelling side of Parisian bourgeois by pairing it with flowing, high-slit culottes and a sharp jacket (this season in soft navy with tailored cuffs) and then grounding the whole look with ranger boots.
Complementing such practical considerations were more directional pieces. A feminine shell and a camisole showered with Art Nouveau–inspired flowers were as pretty as could be. Eyelet blouses with flouncy cuffs brought a touch of girlishness to relaxed classics like chunky knits and slouchy pleated trousers. Sharp-eyed followers will recall this season’s floral print: the designer used it on benches for her show, and those, too, are slated to reappear season after season.
It’s all part of Ramsay-Levi’s philosophy of reusing the resources she has and trying to strike a balance between constancy and fashion’s habit of newness. “Fashion is changing so fast. Even for me, sometimes I see a show and I don’t get it right away; I need time to digest things,” she explained. “There’s something unhealthy about the infinite circle of newness, so even if something we do isn’t a best seller, if I like it, sometimes I’ll bring it back again.” For that, Chloé fans are sure to thank her—now, and for seasons to come.
