Dark isn’t a word you would typically use to describe Brock Collection, a label known for pretty puffed-sleeve dresses and antique-y florals. But pre-fall had a moodier feeling to it, a noticeable shift away from the brand’s ladylike and ultra-polished roots. It echoed the sultrier kind of femininity we saw on the fall 2019 runways, and Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar are likely thinking along similar lines for their ready-to-wear show in February.
The vast assortment in the showroom told a slightly different story than this look book, with racks of angelic cotton day dresses and a few options for the Brock bride, too. But the duo’s experiments with tailoring and head-to-toe black stood out, with a focus on fuller, more covered-up silhouettes. They’re proposing sharp blazers with ankle-length tulle skirts for next summer, and they highlighted a new, goth-y Victorian lacing detail on the back of an onyx dress. Another standout gown came with a dramatic empire waist and horsehair built into the hip, creating a tulip-like, couture-ish volume. It would be a compelling option for a black-tie wedding next summer, but was likely designed with the January and February award shows in mind, too.
The Brock woman who isn’t ready to give up the frills and florals will gravitate toward Vassar’s favorite dress: a lilac jacquard number with a creamy ribbed knit layered underneath. It was the epitome of a “pre-fall dress,” one you’d wear by itself in July, and with a knit or blazer in September. Though it isn’t evident here, the duo expanded their knitwear offering in a big way: Next year’s top-sellers will no doubt be the cozy wool pullovers with embroidered bouquets blooming on the chest.
