If someone needed proof of Daniel Lee’s assertive (shall we say gutsy?) approach to Bottega’s reboot, pre-fall was the unapologetic evidence. It further clarified his vision for the Milanese house as not a rehash of pre-existing style codes, but a bold embrace of a stripped-down, modern version of luxury, rooted in refined, high-end craft yet exuding an almost raw feel. There’s a sort of unequivocal honesty about Lee’s approach, which can be as refreshing as it is unsettling—as when a friend tries to be honest with you but ends up hurting your feelings. You don’t know whether to be grateful or angry at him.
“Straightforward. Bold and confident. Subtlety elevated,” stated Daniel Lee in the collection’s press notes. ”Pre-fall 2020 celebrates Bottega’s heritage made relevant for today.” Relevant is more often than not a rather tricky adjective. However, the way Lee is manipulating the house’s signifiers is proving successful. His take on the hero intrecciato motif, for instance, is imaginative and ingenious. Here it was blown-up into humongous shapes, padded and inflated into rather fabulous puffa coats, as stylishly extravagant as they looked practical and protective. The shiny, smooth surfaces of nappa leather were dyed deepest black black, or a self-confident palette of turquoise, bubble-gum pink, and lipstick red. The contrast of tactile materials and punchy colors produced a slightly jarring effect.
Sporty, workwear-inflected pieces (oversized waterproof leather or nylon parkas, anoraks, and boxy shorts) were designed to appeal to both genders; tailoring was anchored in men’s sartorial finesse, yet treated with fluidity. A black tuxedo, straight-cut with elongated lapels, low buttonholes, and ample palazzo pants was a standout look.
Celebrating a certain sensuality seems to be an important expressive concept to Lee. Surely, working for an Italian fashion house brings about a flair for the hedonistic, for some heat, gloss, and lust for life. Yet he isn’t a sensualist, in that he doesn’t indulge in mannerisms or languorous innuendos. There’s nothing fragile or vulnerable in his knotted, twisted yet compact body-con knitted dresses, made in thick, almost coarse ribbed cotton, or in the draped sexy numbers dripping with metallic sequins, shimmering and liquid—yet probably rather cold against the skin.
Even if Lee upped the ante on the ready-to-wear offer for pre-fall, the focus on accessories was unwavering. The collection was anchored by chunky boots with a wavy molded rubber sole, and new versions of the square-toe intrecciato heeled sandals abounded. The most interesting addition was a new take on the hyper-successful series of Pouch bags (the Pouch, the Shoulder Pouch and the BV twist) crafted in a corrugated cardboard “kraft” paper. Made from 100% recycled paper, the raw material is protected and made waterproof with polyurethane film and microfiber fabric. The finish felt incredibly soft and smooth to the touch. Sustainable sensuality could be Bottega’s new frontier.
