The true extent of the Balenciaga ambition to be all things to all classes of people materialized this week with the news that Demna Gvasalia will be reaching the haute echelon with the return of couture for the house in July. Meanwhile, down at street level, where he’s always gathered his sociologically inspired studies, here’s pre-fall, which oddly enough will begin to be delivered almost simultaneously with the couture show.
The signs here—perhaps tongue-in-cheek—are that the brand is also looking to stretch laterally into so-called lifestyle clothing. The new GW logo stands for gym wear, and the new flat vegan trainers, Drive and Zen, look as if they might even be fit for running in—or at least contenders to replace the super-soled Balenciaga ugly trainer in the sneaker races.
The Balenciaga Insta-meme factory that produces its joke branding is working faster than ever. Some people in this look book are taking selfies. One woman has a bell-sleeve Cristobal-style 1950s coat and printed leggings that are covered with the souvenir Balenciaga logotypes that Gvasalia and his team have tweaked since the time he took over here.
There are others who belong to the tribe that likes to take its fashion sans logo. If you’re interested in Balenciaga, though, you will not be looking to it for bland, unnoticeable classics. The trouser suits in looks 49 and 53 service them, all right. The minimal cuts and off proportions of the boxy jackets and outward-curving trousers will call to fashion insiders as loudly as logos and slogans do to other Balenciaga shoppers.
