Helene Schjerfbeck was a Finnish painter born in the mid-19th century, known for charming self-portraits and a sense of melancholic realism; her work was recently the subject of an exhibition at London’s Royal Academy of Arts. The slightly chilly Scandi hauteur that permeates her oeuvre resonates with Simon Holloway’s penchant for restrained, sophisticated elegance. The severe high-neck dresses the artist often portrayed herself in constituted a starting point for Agnona’s pre-fall collection.
The crisscrossed neckline was one of the many subtly elegant details in the lineup; it was translated into turtlenecks or into the collars of coats and jackets. The season’s silhouette was a bit boyish and slender, with a cool Northern sense of clarity. Softly tailored masculine coats and suits made for a compelling proposition, with deconstructed shapes not detracting from precision but adding ease and comfort. A beautifully cut checkered coat in soft Prince of Wales brushed cashmere had lapels made from alpaca, replicating an old-school mink collar. Elsewhere, a feminine flair was apparent in the considered use of floral prints, including a botanical-inspired wintry motif of dried pressed leaves and an abstract floral pattern printed on silk twill with a virtuoso technique of needle-punched cashmere that created a romantic faded sfumato effect.
As always with Agnona, the variety and quality of fabrics were as high as can be. This season, Holloway raised the bar on the label’s responsible sourcing. “In reality, we already start on a very good base in terms of responsible use of fabrics,” he explained. “Nearly everything in our collections has always been natural.” But since the sustainable game is getting tougher, Agnona is responding with an even keener awareness of best practices. To start, it is addressing more responsible sourcing of synthetic yarns. “For example, the viscose in our viscose cady is now sustainably sourced; that is, the trees from which it is harvested are replanted, instead of leaving a barren forest,” said Holloway. Cotton shirting is also almost completely organic and responsibly farmed; the polyester blended into wools to make the fabric stretch has been replaced with recycled polyester; and the nylon used for the inside of quilted jackets is now only recycled. “We no longer use synthetic padding or down feathers for filling puffer jackets; we use only recycled cashmere,” continued the designer. “We can’t fix everything overnight, but this season we’ve tackled every single aspect that we could in a more cohesive way.” The company’s approach to responsible luxury is a praiseworthy example of commitment and engagement on issues crucial today for the fashion industry—and for the world.
