Sportmax is fresh off of a 50th anniversary year and corresponding book in which its brand of practical, essential Milanese ready-to-wear was very much celebrated. What to do after all that looking back and reflecting? Stepping boldly into the future would be the obvious recourse, and fashion director Grazia Malagoli led the label into new territory this season with sure footing. The clothes, for the most part, were created with three-dimensionality in mind—not the typical front-versus-back dichotomy of most fashion show garb that leaves the sides of models woefully forgotten. As such, the tucked and draped half-capes and darted and ruched dresses might not photograph as beautifully as simple, 2-D-minded designs, but watching a star cast of models walk in these clothes was surprisingly exciting.
For women less concerned with the complex design of their garments, Sportmax offered plenty of effortless suiting and unfussy eveningwear. The best in class of each category: a blue faux leather suit with pleated detailing on Maike Inga and a pinned-up knit over a glittering gown on Sara Grace Wallerstedt. In between were lots of monochromatic layering pieces, mini suits, and sumptuous coats that will look great both IRL and on URLs.