Mulberry creative director Johnny Coca has been in a quintessentially English groove for the past few seasons. The showroom where he presented his latest collection in Paris today was populated with all manner of traditional plaids, many derived from the archives of the British brand—specifically those which once lined the handbags. Neat ’60s-leaning plaid coats and skirts suits were furnished with posh gold buttons for good measure. Coca also has a soft spot for punk—what could be more British than a spot of anarchy?—and the chunky, gold-capped boots were a fitting counterpoint to the spiffiness.
Elsewhere, the most essential pieces in the collection were deliberately devoid of any bells and whistles. Known as the Portobello, the new minimalist tote is the brand’s first sustainable handbag. Stripped back entirely—that means no hardware, lining, toxic finishes or adhesive—the piece is made from eco-certified leather in Mulberry’s factory in Somerset, England, and first launched before the holidays, selling out in a matter of days. Now the Portobello is being reintroduced for fall in three sizes and a variety of new colors.
The most significant news, however, has little to do with newness at all. Known as the Made to Last program, Mulberry’s new buy-back and repair service addresses the conversation around the circular economy. As Coca tells it, Mulberry fans have been turning up in droves to have their bags refurbished—those pieces that are beyond repair can be exchanged for credit toward a new purchase. As fashion begins to wade through the moral quagmire of the throwaway economy, initiatives like these are a step in the right direction.
