The couturiere of choice to royalty, both real and Hollywoodian, is celebrating 30 years in business. You don’t get that far without racking up a few tales and also learning how to be flexible. To that end, Jenny Packham is readying a book, titled How to Make a Dress, which is about the clothes, of course, but so much else besides. Resilience, for one. And as for the flexibility—the day after our meeting, she was planning on packing up this collection and sending it to New York so that buyers who are not traveling this season can see the looks. It’s not a perfect scenario by any measure. But it is what’s necessary and what will work. This might be a good place to mention that Packham is already fielding calls from panicked brides, whose gowns—The Dress—have become unexpected casualties in a world gone haywire.
Packham’s got those ladies covered (and so does her recent collaboration on bridal lingerie with Kiki de Montparnasse). And she has a few ideas inspired by the world as Helmet Newton saw it, the one where women take the lead, own their desires, and honor their truth. “Personally, I love that androgynous look,” the designer said. In the fall collection, shown here photographed at Blakes Hotel in London, masculine tailoring meets geometric sequins; hot monochromatic colors dally with graphic motifs such as a deep-V dress with black stripes and gold sequins (one of the designer’s personal favorites); and new variations on celebrity picks pop up, like Hilary Duff’s wedding gown (now in ruby red with sequins and floral appliqués) and a fully sequined, short puff-sleeve number inspired by a dress Dita Von Teese recently wore for her New Year’s Eve show (also in red). At the opposite end of the occasion-dress spectrum, the work of fashion editor–turned–photographer Deborah Turbeville was another touchstone for romantic ruffled and crystal-embellished tulle gowns. A ’60s-inspired green dress with floral sequins and ostrich-feather trim had spring party written all over it.
Meanwhile, Packham is working to get ahead of the game, diving deep into the question of what makes an ethical sequin (she’s been looking at biodegradable ones). She’s also peeling back the layers on ethical fabrics and trying to get to the essence of the matter. Like her book, it’s a labor of love. “It’s important to our brides,” she said. “It’s all about how one relates to clothes.”
