Calvin Luo canceled his Paris Fashion Week presentation on account of the coronavirus. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.
Calvin Luo stands out among his generation of young designers for his ability to pull together disparate and fabulous references. His shows are typically of the narrative ilk, increasingly rare in contemporary fashion, and conclude with dramatic eveningwear often adorned in paillettes and feathers. But the arrival of the coronavirus in China prompted Luo to rethink his design ethos. As he began work on this collection in December, he conducted interviews with women of all strokes—journalists, influencers, lawyers—asking each what she wanted from her wardrobe during these difficult times.
“I learned that they all feel like health and comfort is a priority,” Luo said over the phone from Shanghai. “They feel like right now people have less opportunities to go out or attend social events and activities, and that there is a downturn for the economy and for businesses. Women have less budget to shop.”
With these new realities in mind, the designer focused on functionality and pragmatism for fall 2020. In a palette of khaki, black, and denim blue, Luo’s garments are multipurpose: Most of the outerwear converts into gilets or waistcoats. Knitwear is trompe l’oeil, with twinsets actually made as a single garment. Luo’s love of couture shapes and techniques remains—dramatic full skirts and braiding details still appear, but are used more sparingly than previously. His beloved feathers have similarly been reduced to boa accessories and headpieces. Stripping away the excess, Luo has designed garments that feel right for this moment.
