The last time this reviewer missed a Vivienne Westwood show was in London, entirely the fault of the Dame: She talked so very entertainingly pre-show backstage, and for so very long, that her production team sent out the models as we gabbed. This time, uh-oh, there was no excuse but for writing stuff not nearly nearby enough, and totally forgetting the time.
Thank heavens for livestreams and the tolerance of Andreas Kronthaler, who postshow administered only a gentle spanking (but literally) before delivering the thrust of this collection. “It’s about rites of spring, and the good and the bad, and conflict, and the good prevailing over evil,” he offered. The show had been held in the Hôtel de Ville, site of the shooting of Robespierre, and the designer was educatedly excited enough about this honor (after “trying for years” to be here) to channel a revolutionary French wench flavor in several looks. Lightning-print ponchos and hyper-baggy tracksuits nodded to ravers, while a shrouded white look topped with multicolored strips was pagan May ritual attire. One look placed a white trench over a torn and faded Union Jack flag dress, which could prove a total red rag to the British Daily Mail constituency if they spin it with enough vigor.
Bella Hadid had two marvelous looks, one a ruffled and hot slattern frock with a necklace of garlic bulbs (begone!) and the finale piece—a virginal badass Boadicea wedding dress in two types of white lace with duchesse corsetry. This was accessorized with a dagger that she drew with intense intent at the end of the runway: deadly. Various neutral parties rolling around postshow said this was the best iteration of the collection they’d seen for some time. Next season this will be reported firsthand, I promise, but based on what I did see, that feedback felt justified.
