Albino Teodoro indulged his penchant for sculpted silhouettes for fall. An architect by training, he has a natural understanding of well-built volumes, underlined by precise lines and shapes; his cutting techniques are skillful. Teodoro usually favors couture-quality fabrics; they support the play on construction that is at the foundation of his style. Yet there’s nothing hard-edged or too conceptual to it—the subtle sensuality and glamour takes the edge off any obvious architectural reference.
Black seems to be the current season’s color of choice, ubiquitous on the catwalks. Teodoro opted for it to give his collection depth and a dash of mystery: “Black is absolute,” he said at today’s presentation. He wanted to work on an almost archetypal purity of shapes; a deep, dark hue seemed the natural choice to erase the superfluous and let a forceful linearity surface. From a hybrid cape-trench to tailored evening pantsuits, on a shift dress with sculpted asymmetrical ruffles and a column number dripping in liquid sequins, black tinged the collection with a sophisticated restraint.
Tailoring had sensuality and sharpness in equal measure. Soft corsets were juxtaposed over masculine blazers or crisp poplin shirts, suggesting a gentle erotic undertone. As for the theatrical gestures Teodoro favors, they were in evidence in an evening dress in scarlet silk faille, majestic and sculptural yet looking as light as air.
