Even when life felt relatively normal, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were conceiving collections that often went viral. With this latest undertaking, they cleverly addressed couture in the time of the coronavirus: three mini wardrobes comprised of a negligee, dressing gown, and coat meant to represent pandemic-related emotional states.
Essentially, doom and gloom give way to a wave of mixed feelings that resolve in expressions of unconditional love. Meanwhile, each of the nine elaborate creations is a meme in the making. Think lace-incrusted emojis; sparkly, socially distanced spikes; a halo of hearts, and more.
On a video call ahead of their digital debut—an amusing yet informative film that riffs on bygone salon-style shows—they said they were initially unsure of the direction to take. “The situation has been so terrible, it made [us] wonder, Are we allowed to do this?” said Snoeren. After discussions with their team, they decided that doing nothing was not an option, but that whatever they did, “had to be meaningful,” said Horsting.
In previous seasons, the designers had already been espousing a more sustainable approach to fabric sourcing. This time, they worked with local suppliers around Amsterdam and drew from their own fabric stock. If they reached garish territory with the voluminous pink robe festooned with sashes, bows down one arm, canary yellow quilting, and a braid, they treated the negligees with lovely lightness. As for the coats designed for social distancing, the irony is that Horsting and Snoeren have always played around with unwieldy volumes—now, they were simply giving them new relevance. Cue the film’s campy voiceover (recorded by singer Mika) guaranteeing that “you will remain in your own safe zone while venturing out into the world.” This was Viktor & Rolf at its best: bringing relatable messaging to their avant-garde vision, putting a pop spin on their more conceptual silhouettes.
Wit and swelling orchestral music aside, the descriptive narration also proved an effective hack to capturing couture through a screen, directing us to details that we might have otherwise missed. It seemed the designers were also making a meta statement on fashion shows within these empty salons—how removed we are from that original, intimate format. “For years, we have been saying to each other that the fashion show is losing a bit of mystique,” explained Snoeren. “Having said that, if a show is done well…nothing compares to it.”
Compared to those that have taken a downright escapist approach this week, this Viktor & Rolf collection attempted to rise above reality with imagination and optimism. At one point, the voiceover offered this: “We all deserve to be loved, regardless of age, color, gender, race, religion, or sexuality.” Sure, a dress itself might not get us there, but at least Horsting and Snoeren were reminding us that fashion should always have something to say.
