Margaret Howell has been an enduring presence in British fashion for more than five decades, quietly crafting practical and simply elegant clothes that are made to last. It’s a value proposition that couldn’t be more resonant in today’s climate, as the industry begins to take stock of its excesses. If buying less with a more considered mind-set is now the modern way, then Howell was years ahead of the curve.
The designer seemed to be signaling that to the audience at her show on the South Bank. The first model appeared in a crisp white shirt that was totally unadorned and grounded with sensible Dr. Martens–style black boots. The next came out wearing little more than an oversize blazer, and was followed by another in a stand-alone, three-quarter-length toggle coat. It was Howell stripped back to her most essential parts.
The series of looks that came after offered subtle ways to update those classic tropes. The box-pleat skirts were a nice counterpoint to the masculine tailoring and lent the collection a schoolyard charm paired with knee-high socks, felt kerchiefs, and knitted ties. Notoriously shy, Howell did not take a bow at the end of her show, though you could imagine her wearing the final outfit in the collection—high-waist, belted pinstriped pants; a smart gray button-down; and monk-strap shoes—a uniform to stand the test of time.
