“Funky, mutated workwear” is how a team member at Engineered Garments described the label’s core offering. It’s a brand renowned for its pockets; consider a trouser-and-jacket combination for fall with a total of 19 pockets, and that’s not even taking into account the potential styling options with backpacks, tote bags, and a shoulder harness bag that has had another new pocket added to its design. Nonetheless, fall 2020 finds Daiki Suzuki smoothly sliding into new territory.
Inspired by the masculine grace of the jazz musicians that once haunted the Village Vanguard and the Blue Note, Suzuki (mostly) swapped his multi-pocketed cropped shapes for a luxurious, romantic silhouette here. Wearers might find themselves literally strapped into a shearling-lined coat or new harness accessory, but in these longer, away-from-the-body silhouettes, they will feel more free. Of course, the looseness of jazz doesn’t mean Suzuki has given up on rigor. The genre actually makes quite a nice metaphor for the way he works: Know as much as possible, dig as deep into the weeds of one’s craft, and then beautifully freestyle. “Balance and tone” reads one graphic, and so Suzuki has balanced his new Lawrence blazer made in a custom pinstripe navy wool from American Woolen Company with new iterations of cargo vests, gigantic wader overalls, and a chenille aviator jacket. “If you know how to wear it,” the team member says several times about flood pants, hospital gown jackets, and nubbly tweed bucket hats the size of planters, “it looks amazing.” If you get it, flaunt it—and freak it a little with that layered harness.
