Over the past few seasons, Sebastien Meunier has romanced his menswear to beguiling effect.
For Fall, he continued in that vein, sending out all manner of clothes inspired by the groundbreaking, erotic Afternoon of a Faun, a dance choreographed and performed by Vaslav Nijinsky for the Ballets Russes over a century ago.
“I’ve always been fascinated by dance and particularly that ballet, it’s so romantic and goes so well with the house’s ethos,” Meunier said backstage. To that end, he reproduced the piebald Nijinsky wore onstage, and when the models weren't sporting easy, drawstring or razor-cut trousers, they wore leotard-like knits beneath their coats, the better to keep attention on theatrical, tailored outerwear accentuated by the metallic creep of ivy jewelry—lots of it. (These weren’t just showpieces: they will be produced, the designer said).
Highlights included narrow, double-breasted jackets with strong shoulders and the occasional leather accent, sometimes paired with trousers cut large to replicate the triangular line of a faun’s leg. Mesh-like knits with chunky patches and distressed details played foil to covetable coats, such as an ecru one with metallic sleeves, velvet with a mother-of-pearl cast or else printed for a feathery effect, and plush numbers in shearling or fur. One glossy leather coat brought to mind the glazed finish of crème brulée.
Meunier sent a few “priestesses” through the hills and vales inside the Espace Niemeyer, too. But he seems more at home with menswear. He gives himself more latitude, questions traditional notions of masculinity, has fun, goes with the flow. The Ann Demeulemeester woman might be tempted to jealousy. She needn’t be. She can just go ahead and borrow.
