From a Paris hotel suite turned showroom, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait lifted his orange sweater to show off a new tattoo of the Southern Cross constellation on the backside of his shoulder. A similar rendering—more childlike than astronomically accurate—adorns the cuff of an ivory sweater that appears in this lookbook. Indeed, if last season’s collection explored ideas of mapping (see: a craggy mountain range in silhouette that also mimics an EKG), the imagery for Spring looks beyond the mountains to the sky and stars. A stylized rainbow intarsia runs down a cashmere sweater, while a constellation illustration covers a kimono that has been dyed in a faint wash of pastel hues, giving it a pleasing, lived-in feel.
Tattoo notwithstanding, Chait isn’t as preoccupied with seasonal themes as these examples might suggest. Anyone familiar with The Elder Statesman knows how near-obsessional fabrication development and creative dyeing techniques give this knitwear label its marks of distinction. To that end, newness came in the form of . . . linen. Made in India, the pieces lead the lookbook series; up close, both the quality and gradient coloration are lovely. “We like artisanal people to be as much a part of the process as they can,” Chait said, noting that this was one of the rare occasions when they didn’t do the dyeing themselves. But the painterly blue windbreaker and a tie-dye dress in “swilk” (their term for Swiss silk) showcase the fruits of their in-house, Los Angeles–based labor. And these pieces, along with a corduroy grouping that includes an A-line snap-front skirt and cargo pants, reflect Chait’s intention to boost a largely unisex range with more distinctly feminine options. Smartly, nothing was fussy or overthought; a sweater and bodycon skirt combination might prove pricey (like most of the line); but Chait assures they will keep their shape.
Now that The Elder Statesman has committed to a more regular twice-yearly calendar cycle, Chait said he feels surprisingly excited by how this is driving the design. “We’re actually quite self-aware and wanting to grow, and I think a lot of inspiration is going to come out of that.”
