After the spectacular 50th anniversary show at Central Park last September, Ralph Lauren was in the mood for something a little more intimate for Fall. So, it was breakfast at Ralph’s on Madison Avenue this morning. The brand’s historic flagship mansion was made to look like a charming Parisian brasserie with moss green leather-covered banquets and trays of freshly baked croissants to rival the popular Rive Gauche hangout Café de Flore. It was a refreshing break from the trend for star-studded evening shows which is beginning to dominate the Fashion Week schedule. That said, the crowd was no less major. Dressed in a mood-boosting shade of lemon yellow, Zazie Beetz was a sight for sore eyes, as was Karlie Kloss in her cool blue suit. And there were other front row standouts: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Camilla Belle, and Annabelle Wallis, who looked particularly good in a bohemian patchwork velvet skirt and cozy cashmere sweater from Lauren’s Fall collection.
As Taylor Hill descended the mansion stairs in a pristine white admiral jacket and billowing wide-leg pants, it was clear Lauren was wiping the slate clean. The designer is known for elaborate themes, transporting his audiences to a different time and place with his collections, though his latest offering had a decidedly unfussy tone. Models swished by the wooden breakfast tables dressed in black and white crewneck day dresses that were cinched with shiny gold belts and finished with ankle-nipping pleats. That demure silhouette continued through to evening with tuxedos that were cut with a dramatic line, right down to the floor. It was an echo of the custom Ralph Lauren white suit Glenn Close recently wore to pick up her SAG Award for her starring role in The Wife, which felt right for the moment. And at a time when the real estate of a red carpet look has become more scant than ever, that grown-up approach to dressing is a welcome breath of fresh air.
Still, every show (fashion or otherwise) needs its shining moments, and there were several in this one to fit the bill. Of all the shimmering dresses, Bella Hadid’s golden V-neck number caught the spotlight. And yet, the most compelling red carpet contender in the bunch was far more understated: a black organza jumpsuit with a subtle floral motif. Oscar attendees would be wise to consider it.
