Have you ever had the dream where you’re on your way to work and you suddenly realize you’re stark raving naked? The fashion-designer version is getting a call from Gigi Hadid, warning you that you’re late for your own runway show. And. All. You. Have. Are. Sketches. Jeremy Scott’s entertaining Moschino show began with that phone call tonight. “Pull something together,” Gigi advised, to which Scott responded, “Okay, I’ll be right there.”
In the dream sequence that followed, Scott was a designer of an old-school, Yves Saint Laurent–ish stripe. The runway backdrop re-created the re-creation of YSL’s studio, which occupies the second floor of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. The looks were of an ’80s vintage: couture tailleurs with grand waist-cinching bows; pouf-sleeved tops and pouf skirts; and saucy wrap dresses—all in white with dashed-off Magic Marker–type squiggles and dots suggesting color and pattern.
Like all dreams, this one could be interpreted in more ways than one. Scott himself alluded to the industry’s relentless pace before the show, but he hardly seems to struggle with time-management issues. Even with his own line, Moschino, and an H&M collaboration on the horizon, he’s always easy with a sound bite and generally extremely affable. Instead, let’s call this collection an ode to the haute couturiers of old. Scott (like Marc Jacobs, who also referenced the ’80s greats this season) was a rabid fashion fan growing up, and these clothes definitely nodded backwards. Cleverly, as the show progressed, Scott countered the anachronistic formalness of the silhouettes with some of his own Moschino-isms, like sweat suits and jean jackets and pants featuring sketches of his logo necklaces—the kind of thing that will do gangbusters at H&M this November.
The show’s climax was a series of high evening looks surreal in their aspect: There was a thimble hat, a pincushion chapeau, and a tape measure boa. The scissors gown might’ve been an allusion to Dior’s famous Ligne Ciseaux, and the needle dress was a riff on a Franco Moschino original. Three dresses came complete with a bolt of fabric—voila, adjustable trains. Whatever you do, don’t stop dreaming, Jeremy!
