It wouldn’t be a Barbara Bui collection without pieces that ooze glam rock, and you need only glimpse the electric-blue-sequin tuxedo tailoring, a chain-mail tank, or some of the sexy off-shoulder tops to confirm as much for Spring. But this latest lineup was also replete with more fluid, vaguely bohemian looks that injected welcome freshness into the mix.
From her Marais showroom, the designer singled out what she referred to as a jupon Montgolfière, which essentially translates to an “air-balloon underskirt.” Indeed, the colorful, lightweight fabric and outsize volume conjured exactly that, but paired with a streamlined tank it has potential as a summery statement piece. This airy theme extended to silk scarf prints, which took shape as a variety of overlayers, including sleeveless tunics and djellabas that were often spliced with incrustations of knit or lamé. One of the motifs revealed an illustrated pair of fierce Asian-inflected tigers, while another revisited the graphic lettering of her name—which is to say the vibe was bold even as the silhouettes were forgiving. Basque-style belts added something new to her usual offering of flattering pants, whether cut like jodhpurs or skinny cargos. Boasting a panel of water snake, tones of teal and yellow, and gold striped trim, the biker looks just barely escaped garish, and for this reason they will likely end up playing well in some spotlight situation (on stage, in a music video, perhaps even a red carpet).
Bui pointed out that this collection was about “personages,” saying, “they’re not stereotypical.” And to that point, just as the visit seemed complete, she showed off a fantastic scarf creation that was an amalgam of all the ideas above, from embroidered, white chain mail to the breezy patchwork silk. As accessories go, it was unique.
