Swapping out a show format for a presentation can be a sign a label is in trouble, but Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez convincingly pitched that the change here was solely in order to better communicate the collection. The venue was the bar and club in the basement of the excellent Brazilian-Japanese fusion restaurant Temakinho. Onstage, a band called Orchestra Casadei was belting out traditional liscio belters while a tightly dressed couple threw enthusiastically twirly dance moves. Next door, there was a busy bar heaped with fruity drinks overseen by a stern parrot named Paco, who briefly sat on my shoulder.
As the designers explained, this was all context for a collection that was a fusion of ’80s influences (the power shoulders especially), tropical color stories, and prints (including one of a parrot on nylon poplin pajamas). It emphasized evening (notably in the fanned-sequin dresses and one V-neck minidress in micro-sequin fabric with reefs of white ruffle at each shoulder). Fake dyed feathers—no parrots harmed here—were used as decoration on a sheer blouse, a shirt, and pants. There was a lot going on at the shoulder—many of the looks featured hybrid T-shirt-dress detailing or funny little shoulder-strap sashes. As a vivacious collection of ironically touched dress-up-and-dancewear, this definitely convinced.
