As much we’re supposed to be focusing on Alexis Mabille’s latest flirty, ultra-feminine dresses, it’s impossible to ignore the fact that a model’s entire face is mysteriously masked behind a reflective shield. Created by Paris-based accessories designer Marie Beltrami, it’s essentially a giant mirrored sunglass. Mabille, whose theatrical couture creations have recently been worn by Beyoncé and Rihanna, explained that his intention was not to hide the woman’s identity but to create an effect that hovered between surrealist and sci-fi; think: Magritte crossed with Iron Man. Combined with the foreboding Paris sky—that killer view is from the upper terrace of the Cité de l’Architecture, which will open next year care of the Girafe restaurant below—the statement is more unsettling than he probably envisioned, especially since he also mentioned a certain projection of ourselves onto the face. Yet it certainly introduced a different dimension to all the pretty applications of fine lace and broderie anglaise.
For the past few seasons, Mabille has streamlined his ready-to-wear register to what he does best—no more dabbling in athleisure—and this lineup included a number of pleasing updates (speaking of updates, he has also just designed his first restaurant, fittingly named Froufrou). Crisp, striped poplin appeared as off-the-shoulder bustier tops and breezy, bias-cut skirts; here, his signature bow waist detail morphed into a clever trompe l’oeil tied shirt. His choice of pastels stood out for their brightness—like those favored by the Queen rather than soft baby hues. Still, they were limiting compared to a chic black trench dress or the white shirt and shirtdress that seduced from behind.
Often, Mabille’s newness had more to do with styling than silhouette. Slip dresses trimmed with lace were layered under skirts and dresses, while a dramatic golden yellow gown was shown over a classic blue men’s shirt. From the maxi shirtdress in blue gingham featuring a removable plastron to the pink piqué coatdress with its removable collar, several designs invite women to slightly personalize the look—no mask necessary.
