A band of dapper mariachis greeted guests at Ralph & Russo’s show today, setting the tone for the collection. “I was inspired by María Félix,” said Tamara Ralph backstage with her partner, Michael Russo, at her side. “She was the most famous Mexican diva of all time; I love her passion, her charisma, her sensuality. She was elegant, but she didn’t take fashion so seriously. We wanted to have fun this season and to celebrate her cinematic Latin-American glamour.” And celebrate they did. The show was as flamboyant and extravagant as could be.
Ralph and Russo had a moment of glory last year when they were in the running to dress Meghan Markle for her wedding to Prince Harry; if the Duchess of Sussex had chosen one of today’s over-the-top triumphs of feathers, fringes, ruffles, and embellishments, fashion history would’ve taken a rather different turn. Who knows if for better or for worse? But as the saying goes, there’s no use crying over spilled milk. The Australian designers, after taking full advantage of the media exposure, are moving on with gusto.
The first look was an acid green wool crepe tailored body-con pantsuit, cut very tight, a crystal and gold-embroidered snake coiling around the blazer’s fitted torso, with a matching sombrero adding a playful sense of drama. The ensemble certainly made a cinematic statement. Another look seemed to pay homage to a performer of a different origin: A tiered white organza number, lavishly embroidered with glittery bananas, looked like it was made with Josephine Baker in mind.
Couture collections are creative playgrounds where designers let their fantasies run free. Here, it felt like Ralph and Russo really had a blast. Feathers sprouted exuberantly from flimsy chiffon caftans, pom-poms dangled from the asymmetrical hem of a sexy black lace bustier minidress, and a bubblegum pink neoprene pantsuit was lavished with an abundance of multicolor crystal embellishments. The award for the most eccentric, imaginative combination went to a one-shoulder tunic with a cascading asymmetrical cape of sunray pleated blush pink double satin, worn over another tunic of iridescent laminated fringing. It looked made for dancing all night.
