The models in today’s Armani Privé show walked to the score from Bernardo Bertolucci’s The Conformist from 1970. A representative confirmed that this was in homage to the Italian director, who passed away in November. There was symbolism to this maestro-salutes-maestro gesture—a testament to their respective bodies of work. But the music also enhanced an elegant, sweeping cinematic style that, to varying degrees, permeates the Armani Privé collections season after season.
Within a series of gilded salons located off the Place Vendôme, the atmosphere felt closer to the idealized, indeed, cinematic haute couture experience than the previous venue with its impersonal size. Here, models moved ultra-slowly, which afforded ample opportunity to take in (or take pictures of) Armani’s translation of Parisian high fashion. With Uma Thurman, Michelle Dockery, Dakota Fanning, Juliette Binoche, and Céline Dion among the guests today, the scene could have easily existed in a Woody Allen film, such was this contemporary vision of 1930s via 1980s femininity. The collection was rooted in Art Deco, and more specifically, the craftsmanship of red lacquer, thus offering beautifully ornamental, albeit slightly time-worn, design possibilities. And on the off chance the influence wasn’t clear, there were beaded cloches—lots of them.
The opening look, a sculpted suit, came in a silvery geometric jacquard with forward-leaning sheen. Soon enough, reds and blues took over in vibrant accord—a far bolder match than black and white. Their togetherness was relentless yet the expression was impression; each look varying the Giorgio Armani standard. As a quick recap: Jackets were abbreviated with pants and skirts contoured to the body, some flaring just slightly at the hem. The proximity to models revealed that stiff net ruffles were actually crinoline material. As an interesting twist on the theme, snakeskin and all-over sequins approximated the gloss of lacquer. Sprays of tulle studded with crystals, geometric incrustations, bows, staggered fringes, feathered volumes, velvet point d’esprit, and 3-D jacquards enhanced silhouettes that spanned cocktail attire to red carpet.
The collection eased into black by the end with a series of liquid-like dresses and coordinated looks. With influences that spanned Asian to Op Art, and, of course, Deco, this was an ambitious, daresay overwhelming, display in the full Armani Privé spirit. Cast your eye judiciously and it was full of treasures.
