Luke Meier approaches OAMC with cerebral lucidity; his inspiration texts reveal a range of well-researched references, and his articulation of form and function confirms that his approach is never random. This season, he explored space in oppositional terms: deep outer and immediate physical. Hence his attraction to a lightweight silver foil on PVC and shielding yet airy silhouettes. Think: uplifted yet grounded; realistic if slightly dreamy.
“It’s the spirit of the future as a concept rather than spaceships and flying cars, and I’m just always thinking about the future,” he said postshow. Similarly, the layered suiting was suggestive of a spiritual journey rather than a reimagined space suit. OAMC can often register as minimalist because Meier abides by an ultra-pure aesthetic, yet these looks were less reserved than usual, whether the sheer underlayers, the engineered watercolor print and splotched motifs (alternately the cosmos and Jackson Pollock), or the palette (a little Rothko, a little Hockney, a little bridesmaid). And beyond color was composition, with coiled belts seeming hand-assembled and graphic sweaters benefiting from some craft. He used the word compression in his notes to explain a pervasive personal feeling translated into cinched cords and denser-waved cotton fabrics, yet the ’90s hip-hop and electronic instrumental music gave the perception of release.
That OAMC doesn’t fit neatly into any menswear box speaks to Meier’s forward vision, which he insists is positive. “I’m absolutely optimistic; you have to be,” he said. “Fashion is one thing and heavy concept is another, but it all comes out, because I’m obsessively thinking about everything.” What he probably didn’t anticipate was that the treads of the models’ sturdy utilitarian boots would leave faint dust traces along the metallic runway. The show’s typical marching choreography became a moonwalk of sorts—a subtle special effect that left an impression.
