Paul Surridge’s plate is quite full these days; revamping the house of Roberto Cavalli is no mean feat, yet his long-term vision for the Florentine-born label is definitely coming into focus, as proved by the main line men’s Spring 2019 fashion show staged a few days ago at Pitti Uomo. To add to the task, Surridge is navigating a menswear landscape that is hardly on terra firma, with broad cultural shifts in customer demographics requiring designers and brands to reconsider stylistic parameters and market positioning.
Surridge is well aware of what’s happening on the global stage. “If you look at the macro trend, it’s obviously street,” he reflected during a showroom appointment for the Just Cavalli men’s line. “I found it very appropriate that for this season the choices for JC should be more courageous, more toward this urban street vibe and less ornamentation.” He was clearly referring to the dandy-esque soul the label has always been known for. “There’s obviously still a rock ’n’ roll element here, but we’re mirroring what’s happening in the market at large. For me, rock is an attitude more than a literal wardrobe; it has a lot to do with mentality, this idea of fun, being brave; the JC guy doesn’t shy away in a corner.”
Following these considerations, Surridge blended streetwear and sporty references, keeping the silhouette loose, with “slightly more urban skater, scaled-down proportions,” he said. Cavalli’s traditional penchant for decadence and voluptuous embellishment was nowhere to be seen. A less bohemian idea of nomadism was in evidence through a more active and driven feel. Hence the focus on effortless tailoring and comfortable workwear-inspired staples. Worthy of note is Surridge’s smart take on the house’s signature animalier print, which is as strong a symbol as a logo. He worked on an updated and downplayed version of the classic python and leopard patterns, giving them an abstract spin that didn’t detract from their visual impact but definitely boosted their cool edge.