For Dondup’s Spring collection, the design team focused on experimenting with fabrication coating techniques, giving surfaces metallic finishes and glossy shines; Tyvek, a lightweight, papery material, was crinkled and varnished to a patent-like effect while the pressed-cardboard texture of denim tags was transformed into big sporty backpacks with a retro feel. It was a clever way to give a bit of an edge to otherwise familiar wardrobe staples.
The collection didn’t stray far from the ubiquitous sporty vibe, filtered here through a pragmatic urban attitude. This was an efficient rendition of the prevailing trend toward versatile separates. Comfort really dictates the rules of the game these days, hence the slightly oversize proportions for utilitarian outerwear pieces, like leather bombers with metallic patches or boxy checkered blousons with a glossy shine. An elongated parka in bright-blue laminated Tyvek worn over a tracksuit was so lightweight that it could be folded into a tiny pouch; elsewhere in the collection, splashes of neon colors were sprayed over white canvas pants for an energized update on classic denim shapes.
A fresh take on soft tailoring was in evidence for relaxed suits in crisp poplin, which looked cool worn with hooded chambray shirts in a pale shade of blue.