Even before the show notes were sent out, Cerruti 1881’s set had a nocturnal Japanese vibe. Densely crisscrossing wires webbed themselves over the runway; traffic lights blinked on and off. It reminded this writer of the Tokyo neighborhood of Shimokitazawa by night. The Spring collection, “inspired by the timeless elegance of traditional Japanese textile design in all of its subtlety,” was subsequently a big improvement over Fall. Well done, designer Jason Basmajian.
Basmajian also sought to capture the essences of Nino Cerutti’s house codes. There was tailoring, but in an easy, slinky way; there were Bermuda shorts, high-waisted and interestingly proportioned; and there were great silken pants that landed somewhere in the very current ether between formal and pajama. Sometimes volumes were a little off, like a bit too much shape in men’s shirting, but for the most part the ease and flow of Basmajian’s intent was present. A beautiful dove gray suit over a striped shirt hit that bull’s-eye.
Another thing to note: There was a vague beach mood apparent, which was welcome. Especially so with new, simple-chic tote bags.
