To be a suiting house right now is like being a chamber orchestra when the world seems intent on listening only to hip-hop and techno. Nina-Maria Nitsche, however, is making sweet music with the instruments available to her. For her second season she continued to show via a cast of diverse “real” people wearing the collection in various images that looked like stills from a film—although, to what extent, say, designer and architect Matteo Thun and his outrageously gorgeous Capri house feels real rather depends.
Each character modeled three looks, of which one typically was evening, one formal/semiformal, and one more informal. The emphasis on evening, Nitsche explained, was to show that there is a diversity of characterizations via clothing available to men on their way out to party: Gallerist Sam Pratt’s evening suit, whose lapels were encrusted with volcanic stones, and journalist Gérard Holtz’s three textures of silk three-piece tuxedo were testament to that. There was a lot of layering of seersucker over complementarily bobbled piqué, or herringbone jackets over herringbone shirts. The young son of a surgeon named Alberto del Genio wore an awesome shirt with a very subtle palm tree shadow relief, and a familiar-looking commercial director for a fashion brand named Grace Fisher and her daughter looked great in their bespoke pearl silk suits. Artist Enzo Cucchi wore the work-of-art Brioni jersey suit, which should be the garment of choice for anyone who wants tracksuit comfort and suit-suit vibes in the same outfit.
Beautiful clothes, for those who care to listen.
