Everyone’s thinking about going west—and we’re not just talking about jaded New Yorkers. Even the Boss team in Metzingen, Germany, has California on the brain. Today’s show, which marked the label’s first post–Jason Wu collection as well as its first combined men’s and women’s effort, opened not with a suit—the Boss bread and butter—but with a fine-knit dress and nylon trench. Next up was a plunging silk number printed with an abstract, bird’s-eye view of the Los Angeles map (a quite literal reference shoppers may or may not pick up on). Both looks were grounded by flat, lace-up sandals, which reappeared later even with the fanciest looks, like a patch-worked leather dress and the finale gown in pure-white satin.
It goes without saying that the sporty, athleisure-y looks would fit into L.A.’s wellness-obsessed culture, too. But more than that, chief brand officer Ingo Wilts said he simply wanted the collection to feel light. Women’s double-breasted suits were layered over transparent camisoles, not button-downs, and shirting stripes were transposed onto fluid satin dresses. A burgundy-striped, handkerchief-hem frock moved beautifully as it glided by, ditto the skirt version in navy pinstripes.
Things loosened up on the men’s side, too. A blush suit came in a purposefully crinkled fabric, which would free up the anxiety in the back of your brain about creasing it when you sit or crushing it in your suitcase. A few other suits came with comfy drawstring trousers or knit zip-ups in lieu of blazers, which should resonate with the Silicon Valley set. Some of those guys may skip the tailoring altogether, though, in favor of the suede pajama button-downs, trim shorts, and Teva-inspired sandals—just don’t skip the socks.
