Stella McCartney presented her men’s and Resort collections in Milan with a party at a beautiful garden hidden in the city center. Whimsical paper lamps were strung from trees and pizza was served from street carts, while models played table tennis or lawn bowling or chatted with guests. It was a charming setting, and the collections were delightful, too.
“Resort is a celebration of all things Stella McCartney and of the constant journey to make the industry more mindful and responsible and more sustainable,” the designer said during a preview. All her classic elements were here: the play between the masculine and the feminine, the sporty and the street, the country and the city—all blended with a lightness of touch and a romantic attitude.
Long white dresses in broderie anglaise or dainty lace were inspired by antique linens, paired with Skin-Free-Skin jackets or shirts embellished with delicate eyelet cutouts. The masculine side played out with plenty of tailored options. A bold photographic print of a moonrise graced a fluid yet sporty pantsuit in sustainable high-shine viscose, while a fringed top peeked out from a dark tailored blazer worn with slouchy palazzo pants. It exuded a sexy, free attitude; Stella’s girls always have an edge. The signature Stella jumpsuit came in crisp cotton. “You can just throw it on and wear it from day to night, to the office or for a walk in the park or to a club; you can even get married in it!” mused McCartney, highlighting the versatility of her design and also her unconventional spirit.
The sustainable emphasis was particularly evident in the shoe design. The label’s research department came up with a clear non-PVC material for the first time, which was made into masculine lace-ups or studded high-heel sandals. Since animal glue isn’t used here, shoes were built with just stitching, so they can be dismantled and the sole biodegraded. Kudos to McCartney to playing this game so forcefully, and so gracefully.