As of two days ago there were no celebrities walking the Miu Miu show. Then inspiration struck, and Miuccia Prada and her team started making calls, asking guests if they’d like to swap roles for a night. “We called them in the morning, they jumped on the plane, and then they arrived—they all said yes,” the designer exclaimed, genuinely delighted with the turnout. It was a starry multigenerational crew, from Stranger Thing’s Sadie Sink to Chloë Sevigny, Gwendoline Christie, and Uma Thurman. “Uma told me, ‘I’ve never had a decision so spontaneous since ages,’ ” Prada continued.
That idea of spontaneity was echoed in the Resort collection. This season’s Miu Miu woman was either stepping out to the local boulangerie in her pj’s and fluffy slippers or she was just home from a wild party, in a silk duchesse gown scattered with strass and a grandpa cardigan. Prada seemed turned on by that liminal state. She’s coming, she’s going, she’s on the threshold of something. The Regina Hotel, an old stalwart of the traveling fashion crowd whose popularity is coming around again, was the setting for the show. “A hotel has mystery, intrigue, and stories,” Prada said. Filmy peignoirs notwithstanding, the story never got too steamy. Most of the sheer pieces were layered over sporty bandeau tops and briefs in cheery prints. (The collection was rounded out acid wash denim and spongy athletic separates, but they were a weak subplot.)
It wasn’t just the presence of Roman Polanski at the show that conjured images of Rosemary’s Baby. A model with Mia Farrow’s strawberry blonde pixie cut wore a baby doll dress that could’ve been lifted from the film’s wardrobe closet. That 1968 movie has become a touch point in the era of Me Too and a U.S. Supreme Court poised to potentially overturn Roe v. Wade. Addressing those issues wasn’t Prada’s intention. She insisted that with Resort—“this collection in the middle,” she called it—“she feels more free and has more fun.” At the after-party you got her drift. The models and actresses wore their looks straight off the catwalk and into the crowd and in their spangly shifts and minis and dresses with deep cut-outs at the ribs they looked utterly right in the steamy Paris evening. Also: Rowan Blanchard’s duchesse satin gown with the asymmetrical gold leopard lamé strap will be getting its own star turn on a red carpet imminently.
