In a world obsessed with likes and followers, somehow Martin Grant manages to serenely go his own way. That places him among a tiny cluster of proven talents who would rather just stand behind their clothes, not in front of them. But that doesn’t mean he has lost touch with reality. If streetwear is where it’s at, he’s simply going to Grant-ify it.
Relaxed staples such as hoodies, tops, and shorts came in lightweight bayadere striped tweed woven with just enough Lurex to catch the light; jeans were cut high-waisted and perfectly straight or flared; Perfectos were cropped to Spencer length; and white mesh tops were emblazoned at the center with a black circle, which is probably about as close as Grant will ever come to actually doing a logo.
Since launching menswear last season, the designer has seen some cross-current action: A few women have gravitated to men’s pieces (after all, not everyone can work a nipped waist), but even more surprisingly, some men have been reaching for Grant’s amply cut women’s pieces—his shearling jacket was a breakout in that department. This season’s contenders included a travel-friendly navy windbreaker in technical fabric (ostensibly for men) and reversible coats in khaki and blush, one with a hood and savvy side-zip details.
A neutral color story the designer calls “Karen Blixen comes to Paris” incorporated workwear details such as belts run through oversize metal eyelets on swingy, ’70s-inspired skirts, dresses, and trenches in cotton twill. Up the dressing scale were a khaki blouse made of a whisper of lacquered organza, a long blush satin top with this season’s boatneck collar, and a long circle-skirt dress in black poplin that could go just about anywhere. “It’s about my obsession with uniforms,” said Grant. For latter-day Denys Finch Hattons, standouts included a pared-back bomber in butter-soft leather and an elongated tuxedo shirt; for statement-makers, there were striped flares and a single-breasted suit in blush.
Clearly, Grant is having fun with a more casual register. That, plus a spate of recent red carpet moments—courtesy of Anne Hathaway, Amy Adams, and a few young French actresses—prove that following one’s own path can be its own reward.
