Resort isn’t typically when designers choose to experiment or make a major change, but Marchesa fans are in for something very new this season: daywear. In the past, the most “casual” thing you’d find in Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s collections was a cocktail dress or maybe a tuxedo; in contrast, the white broderie anglaise jackets, lace blouses, and floral-printed shirtdresses here were refreshingly low-key. They’ll register as “packable” must-haves for the Marchesa customer traveling somewhere tropical over the holidays.
This collection didn’t skimp on the major statements we expect from Marchesa, though. If anything, the fairy-tale gowns, hand-curled roses, and puffs of ombre tulle were lovelier than ever, because there was a more ethereal, relaxed ease to them. A handful of gowns came in “ice-cream” colors, like the opening tulle number in shades of blush, orchid, peach, and lemon. Other standouts seemed to wrap gently around the body: a strapless, ankle-length number came in black, peony, and blush satin, and another A-line gown was striped with shades of rose. Chapman and Craig’s signature embroideries got a surprising update, too: sparkling fruits and berries mixed within the usual flowers and vines. Some of the more “casual” gowns weren’t to be missed, either: A clever bride might even wear the strapless eyelet dress tied with a velvet bow for her big day.
