Maggie Marilyn has been dedicated to sustainability since she launched her brand in 2016, but a lot of women might not know that. They might buy her clothes because they’re bold, unapologetically fun, and photograph well, too—not because they’re ethically made. But the ruffled, Crayola-striped dresses that reappear in most collections are actually made from ethically produced silk, and her oversize shirting is done with certified natural dyes that require less water. She’s also mindful of the social impact of her clothes, so she works with local factories in her native New Zealand, where she’s reinvigorated the clothing manufacturing industry, and sources her silks from a family-run mill in China that supports its entire village.
A lot of designers hesitate to get into the nitty-gritty of all that, because they worry it will make their brand seem preachy, or will somehow create an impression that they don’t prioritize great design. Six seasons in, Marilyn is feeling more confident about her ethics and her aesthetics than ever, so she hosted her first presentation on the terrace of the Gramercy Park Hotel. Over a quiet morning of coffee and canapés, she explained the composition of her textiles, where they came from, and—just as important—who made them. A condensed version: The full, pleated skirt was made from 100 percent recycled plastic bottles, an effort to cut down on traditional polyester and address our massive plastic waste problem; she used tons of linen, because it’s one of the lowest-impact, naturally renewable fibers on the planet; and her plaid trousers were made from organic, water-repellent New Zealand wool, which is grown without pesticides or herbicides.
As for the designs, she started her mini show with an elegant, long-sleeved gown in raspberry, pink, and white stripes; it reappeared later in navy and fuchsia, and both ankle-length versions came with clever, removable ruffled sashes. Elsewhere, hemlines got a lot shorter, but she balanced the ultra-mini length of a plaid linen blazer with full, puffed-up sleeves. Feminine pieces in oversize, slightly streetwise proportions are Marilyn’s calling card, but she reined in her silhouettes a little this season: The trousers and organic-cotton jeans were wide, but not baggy, and while her suits were still generously cut, they had a softer, ’80s-ish curve to them. All in all, it was a reliably happy, vibrant collection from Marilyn—and everyone left with a much deeper knowledge of just how much care goes into making it.
