Kit Willow introduced her latest collection by showing off a dress and a blouse in mulberry silk (among the finest out there) that had been dyed with plants and flowers including jackfruit—who knew? She then explained how a fabric that featured gold thread twisted around cotton comes from a sari technique done in Varanasi, India, which she adapted as a sultry, strapless design. The beadwork on an elegant cape dress is all glass, and the buttons on a belted, utility-style jacket are made from corozo nut—no plastic. She will use lace with polyester only when it’s been upcycled; and she only uses unbleached, organic cotton denim.
Women who already wear Kitx know of the brand’s approach to minimizing environmental impact via material sourcing, not just manufacturing. For newcomers (including this reviewer), such information becomes a value-added aspect to the label’s refreshing, feminine focus. It quickly became clear that her self-imposed constraints do not handicap her clothes.
Of note this season was a recurring off-shoulder design boasting a knotted front with central cut-out that should prove flattering across a range of body types. A slightly more daring twist of silk resulted in what she dubbed the “sexy jammie top,” and its subtle provocation was every bit pleasing. The way denim had been cut on the bias as a skirt or with open sleeves as a jacket spoke to her “high frequency” notion: being able to wear the pieces often and without expiration date.
While the lineup included many dress styles boasting a shibori-dyed dot pattern, the pureness of her linen looks made the strongest impact. Indeed, the collection abounds with options for countryside dressing or destination weddings, yet Willow was adamant that styling and situation can easily change these readings. “It’s actually not so demure,” said the Australian designer, singling out a coy knotted-front black bodysuit. “You can go from beach to disco.”
