There was some seriously lustrous source material at the heart of Jenny Packham’s Resort line. The London designer, who celebrates her 30th anniversary with a homecoming show in the British capital this September, has been immersing herself in the staggering bijoux collection of Elizabeth Taylor. On the table lay a copy of the actress’s book, My Love Affair With Jewelry—and that adoration was replicated in the rails of resplendent beaded gowns shown here. Taylor’s jewels inspired both tones and textures: So a sweeping sequined look borrowed its rich hue from the Cartier suite of rubies that Taylor was given while swimming in the pool of her favorite French villa; a tulle-sleeved snowdrop-tone dress was scattered with cascades of pavé, marquise, and baguette crystals to mimic the floral formation of her Van Cleef & Arpels brooch; while a series of verdant floor-length gowns, some entirely hand embellished in beads and pavé crystals, were sparked by the Bulgari emeralds that were a gift from her great love Richard Burton.
There were signs of gentle diversification here, too: Alongside the full-throttle, conservative evening gowns were jumpsuits and cocktail and little black dresses with more youthful appeal. Chief among them was a yellow-diamond-hue look, decked with iridescent petal sequins, that borrowed both from the Daisy Parure necklace Taylor once wore to the Oscars and her brilliantly original amber wedding dress—one of the designer’s all-time favorite bridal moments. Packham also emulated Taylor’s boudoir wardrobe, creating trailing silk chiffon robes and minidresses decked with marabou feathers, one of which is an iteration of a piece created for Dita Von Teese. These cover-ups brought an element of fun to the lineup, and hinted at the glamorous driving force behind the forthcoming commemorative show—an exploration of the golden age of Hollywood.
