Huishan Zhang leads something of a double life. Half the year the Dior couture–trained designer lives in London, within easy reach of his Mount Street flagship, and the remainder he spends in his native China, where he’s just completed a major overhaul of his Qingdao atelier. It’s all part of his grand plan to seamlessly unify his dual operations and to forge ahead in an increasingly nuanced Asian fashion market. However jet-lagged he gets from the constant shuttling between the cities, Zhang is also creatively fueled by his dual existence. This duplicity came to the fore in a Resort collection that was by turns pretty and practical. At its heart was a capsule print depicting the ingredients of a love potion, pulled from an ancient Chinese medicine book. Dang gui, believed to amp up fertility, and the red ginseng flower were delicately drawn onto a sinuous series of silk dresses and trenches. As ever with Zhang, it was the feminine detailing that made these pale-hued looks sing. Hems were studded with pearls or zigzag stitching, fabrics were perforated, and intricate printed pleats were interspersed with lace. “The whole idea is that the inside is as beautiful as the outside,” said Zhang as he revealed the impeccable interior of a pink pleated shirtdress.
Then came the practicality. “It all fits into two suitcases,” declared the designer proudly of the 80 looks, which placed an emphasis on light, wrinkle-free fabrications. Everything here had been conceived to be as versatile and hardworking as possible. So a short shift hemmed with ostrich feathers and inscribed with contrast zigzag stitches can be worn with matching trousers by day or alone as a vampy minidress after hours. There were lots of adaptable components, too: A khaki jacket comes with a detachable peplum, and tailored blazers with removable feathery cuffs. Zhang’s play on denim saw a stretchy white iteration in an accordion pleat contrast printed with deep blue for a vivid concertina effect. This focus on daywear will be welcomed by Zhang’s most loyal customers, though the standout moments were when he allowed his romanticism to let rip, unfettered by functionality.
