The legions of ladies who count on Giambattista Valli for party attire probably tend not to think of him for denim or beachwear, which is why the designer this season offered a few first options in those categories. Caftans and a mini-capsule of structured beachwear now join daywear like sequined suits designed to do double duty by day or night. The designer wants his Valligirls to know that, whatever’s happening, he’s got them covered.
“It’s sort of like a story added onto sports,” the designer explained during a phone interview. “The summer at the beach, on a boat, by the pool . . . I wanted to complete that wardrobe. It’s a spontaneous desire. I wanted to do some pretty activewear that could go from the beach to cocktails, that she can wear however she wants.” A number of sheer shorts, however, would probably just do best in the privacy of home.
It’s a perfectly logical train of thought for a collection inspired by travel and Valli’s signature vision of the fashion nomad. “These women are curious about the world, they embrace different cultures, they’re open-minded, balanced, and free-spirited,” he explained. “I wanted to push even further the idea that there are no rules—it’s effortless, seasonless, and it works. You can take a bus or a private jet with the same allure—that’s what real luxury is about today.”
It’s easy to picture her throwing on one of this season’s many embroidered and embellished jackets, like a windbreaker with chrysanthemums and lace, or perhaps a white neoprene tracksuit striped with garlands of roses and trimmed with grosgrain, or an oversize white jacket herringboned with black lace. Pristine white poplin shirtdresses, haute bohemian peasant tops with lace trim, and floral maxi dresses could likewise go from beach to gala—perhaps accessorized with the diminutive “mot d’amour” case in crocodile, which is big enough to hold just a few credit cards (the phone, one presumes, remains in her hand constantly). The Mughal “Tree of Life” motif—on jackets, dresses, and tops—packed charm. Elsewhere, the designer indulged a magpie’s approach to embellishment, on activewear in particular. In an OTT moment, the designer also showed sandals cascading with so many ostrich feathers, the studio started calling them “cats.” Practical they’re not—but in Valli’s world, life is just too short to settle for basics.
