Things are changing at Cushnie et Ochs. Just after the brand’s Fall 2018 show, which coincided with its 10th anniversary, it was announced that Michelle Ochs would be leaving the company. It seemed like a sudden break, especially considering the fact that they’d just celebrated a milestone. But apparently there were no hard feelings—at least that was the vibe that Carly Cushnie conveyed while showing off her first solo outing for the label that she now helms. Resort 2019 provided the opportunity to start shifting Cushnie et Ochs in a new direction and evolve the clothes in a more “seamless” manner, Cushnie noted during the presentation. The body-conscious dresses that the pair initially became known for were certainly still on display, but so were new iterations of suiting, fresh colors and ombré palettes, and experimental embellishments including woven fringe and matte sequins.
The fringe was the most impressive of the new detailing Cushnie implemented this season. A velvet purple and orange ombré gown with a draped low neckline was also nice and felt slightly different in its looser-than-normal cut. Cushnie certainly played with bold colors, but it would have been interesting to see her rework some of the silhouettes into pieces that are more ethereal and less structured. An abstract floral print on a tight pencil skirt and off-the-shoulder dress felt a bit forced, as did a bodysuit with a ruffle collar. As far as separates go, Cushnie’s suiting and knitwear were impressive enough to say without a doubt that these are two categories she might do well to expand on in the near future. The real test will be what she does for the main seasons and how much of herself she can pour into the Cushnie et Ochs DNA. The designer knows what she’s doing, and nothing will be more thrilling than to see her take the reins and run with it.
