These days Andrew Gn says his well-heeled clientele has become so diverse that he is increasingly inclined to create collections that propose many different themes in lieu of a single narrative. And by doing trunk shows with greater frequency, he can now directly observe differences from one part of the world to another. “From the Middle East to Asia to the Americas, I’m having to think about every market,” he said from his Marais showroom. “So it’s not just one direction today; it’s really a wide spectrum of directions.”
Hence a Resort offering that proved expansive in scope and impressive in execution. As presented in the accompanying photos, the lineup begins with the high-impact black-and-white looks inspired by the period portraits of Diego Velásquez giving way to a sugary frosted lineup of brocade, which is followed by a grouping of denim and decorated shirting, before landing at a blitz of saturated color. Even within this final subset, there are distinct offshoots, from the print of floating daffodils and narcissus to the geometric pattern that Gn said nods to Vienna Secession textiles. You could think of it like his version of the “drop,” only by proposing everything simultaneously he’s counting on each market to self-select what will sell best.
Amid all the different ideas was an Andrew Gn constant: his sensitivity to special detailing. Note the old-fashioned Calais lace that gives contouring to crisp poplin shirtdresses and the outward curls of plissé held in place by a coiling black border. As always, his designs are destined for special functions—luncheons, galas, red carpets et al.—and when people are schmoozing in such close proximity, these flourishes will not go unnoticed. This season in particular, though, Gn’s ladylike leitmotif could benefit from a little more everyday dressing. The soaring laced boots are an obvious sign of a certain idealized, slightly fetishized reality. Yet he addresses this exclusive niche with aplomb, putting it best: “There’s always a princess somewhere.”
