Cargo pants chez Alberta Ferretti? Not the most believable proposition from a designer known for her hyperfeminine concoctions of embellished chiffon. Yet utilitarian cargos paired with a military-inspired patched shirt was the first look of her Resort show, an all-encompassing affair that also included a few cute looks from her children’s line and a see-now-by-now genderless capsule of sweatshirts, tracksuits, and hoodies. Emblazoned with an Alitalia logo, the streetwear-à-la-Ferretti mini collection was part of a collaboration between the Italian airline company and the designer, who updated Alitalia’s crews’ new uniforms. They were unveiled today right before the show. A long line of actual flight attendants, clad in elegant navy blue suits trimmed with tricolor ribbons, greeted guests arriving at the show and ascending the Salone Arengario’s grand staircase.
But back to those cargo pants, which suggested a new approach for Ferretti. At a preview before the show, she highlighted how her vision is evolving according to the times and to the needs of a new generation of customers, young and busy women always on the move, free in their spirit, active in their daily lives. The collection reflected this dynamic attitude, while remaining in keeping with the designer’s inventive, romantic spirit. Ferretti never met an embellishment or an embroidery she didn’t like. Yet here she seemed to challenge herself, experimenting with fabrications she’s never used before, such as a stonewashed denim cut into a pair of military-green palazzo pants, or a shiny nylon for a military-green jumpsuit. Or else, she proposed slightly oversize zippered sweatshirts as soft as cashmere, worn with high-waist suede pants.
The collection was smartly built on separates, acknowledging the current trend of mixing and matching items to suit moods, occasions, and personalities. It’s proving a successful strategy for Ferretti. Her well cut trousers and feminine tops are apparently flying out of the stores; according to a spokesperson, in 2017 sales at the company increased by 29.5 percent. For all her dreamy ideas of femininity, she is quite business-savvy.
While nodding to all the workwears, streetwears, and sportswears of this world, the Ferrettiwear kept its feminine, embellished flavor. A decorative folk inspiration infused the collection, with fringing galore undulating from the shoulders of belted jackets and from every possible hem, including sweaters with velvet intarsia and asymmetrical thick-knitted belted tunics. Fortifying the theme, more embroidery graced showstopping see-through numbers, a triumph of sequined fringes, lace intarsia, geometric motifs, and appliqués.
