Simon Holloway is not keen on delving into elaborate references for Agnona’s collections; he doesn’t need to. He seems to have a natural understanding of the Italian label’s codes, which are as deceptively simple as they’re sophisticated. He has a real woman in mind, not abstract archetypes: “Our collections are ageless; our customers are young women in their 30s, as well as ladies in their 70s,” he said. Inclusivity? The box has already been ticked.
During his tenure at the label, which started in 2016, Holloway has focused on polishing the brand perception, bringing a subtle, consistent modernity to classic wardrobe staples, updating proportions and volumes while keeping a sophisticated, understated style. He has even further elevated the already luxurious quality of the fabrications, taking full advantage from the rather extraordinary combination of innovation and craftsmanship that Italian manufacturers can provide. His approach was well displayed in the Resort collection, where apparently uncomplicated, quiet materials were in fact anything but.
A sporty washed-denim jacket-coat, clean-cut and elongated, with a reserved, unassuming charm, at closer inspection revealed itself as being made in the heavenliest double cashmere and lined with a detachable layer of shaved shearling so thin it felt lighter than any bird’s plumage. Same thing for a pair of pants, which looked like usual chinos but which were actually made in the finest, most expensive feathery wool poplin.
That quite sensational, illusionistic cashmere denim fabric took a long time to be perfected; it was displayed in many iterations throughout the collection, rendered in slightly ‘90s-inspired, minimal silhouettes, a recurring trend this season. An elongated shirtdress looked casually chic, while a sporty parka had a relaxed, easy attitude. A gently oversize bomber jacket was worn with an ankle-grazing A-line skirt, which looked pretty cool.
Elsewhere in the collection, a feel of fluidity and ease was highlighted in sweater dresses, caftans, and pleated tunics in precious lightweight fibers: wool cady, nylon silk, extra-fine merino, cotton voile. A delicate watercolor print on pleated skirts and matching blouses added a touch of graceful finesse.
