By the time Belgian designer Natalia Alaverdian founded her brand A.W.A.K.E.—i.e., All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm—six years ago, she had already honed her eye as a photographer, fashion editor for several Moscow-based editions of international fashion titles, and window decorator at Harrods in London. Some of her early adopters were models (Natalia Vodianova, Karlie Kloss), and influencers as varied as Olivia Wilde, Alexa Chung, Pixie Lott, Rita Ora, and Kim Kardashian West also got on board.
Alaverdian does a blend of classic-meets-quirky. This season, she departed somewhat from her Japanese-influenced, oversize look in favor of more fitted silhouettes; her strong-selling hourglass shape now keeps company with a handful of flanker hits, like high-waisted trousers with one slit in front and one on the side or a “pant” skirt (more skirt than pant). “Usually our pieces kind of come with a manual, so we wanted to keep it fresh, pretty, and simpler than usual,” the designer quipped.
She did a fine job of it. Spring showed a balance of sculptural “us”/“not us” shapes; in the first instance, a layered gingham jacket, and, in the second, an hourglass silhouette with a feminine squoval neckline and pleated skirt. A tunic, in emerald or red with a keyhole shoulder, was demure enough to suit just about any professional situation but with just the right amount of sass for after-work wear. The same idea, in black with a switchback curve of white buttons, had the makings of a wardrobe staple. Asymmetrical jeans and the “screwed-up Samurai Barbie” coat in quilted pink with a check overlay may be for a very specific customer, but she’s not as out-there as it sounds.
“Ordinarily we are more nerdy than sexy, but I like the combination of nerdy and sexy,” offered Alaverdian. “We always have a funny-spooky thing going on, in the manner of Tim Burton.” A coat, in white faux fur as plush as a stuffed animal, was a case in point.