Massimo Giorgetti went for layers of clashing, almost incongruous inspirations for his MSGM Pre-Fall collection, which he named the Poetry of YOUth, a play on the words youth and you. The disparate references included a cryptic quote from Edgar Allan Poe, which he printed across sweats and tees (“take your pleasure seriously”); a love letter Man Ray wrote to the photographer Lee Miller, which was reproduced in calligraphy on shirtdresses; and a reference to Stranger Things via the wallpaper motifs in Joyce Byers’s house, which were morphed into a floral pattern on moiré fabric. Topping the exhaustive list, an army of Space Invaders kittens, rather disquieting-looking, promenaded across silk blouses, sweaters, and minidresses.
As other contemporary labels are scrambling to do, MSGM is looking for new ways to keep its logo relevant for its tribes of spending customers. Giorgetti’s recipe, which sales reports indicate is working quite well, is to replace or at least alternate the usual no-brainer lettering with plays on words and more engaging messaging or slogans. “I choose them by instinct,” said Giorgetti, who’s certainly not the bookish type. His instinct is also steering him away from a too obvious tribute to the street style look that has always been an element of the label. While keeping sportswear at the center of his collections, he’s discreetly introducing some well-calibrated tailoring to the mix. For all the fascination with never-ending YOUth, the label is growing up, and so is Giorgetti.
Outerwear has always been a strong point for MSGM; here, it was proposed in oversize volumes freshened up with playful feminine details as in a ruched trenchcoat in micro-houndstooth wool or in a severe, boxy coat where a floral plissé panel sprouted from one side. Along the same lines, a hybrid parka-bomber in shiny satin was padded and protective, yet its color combination of magenta and chocolate brown highlighted a new palette, more velvety and upscale.
The introduction of tailoring was apparent in a patchworked double-breasted coat, to which a touch of acid glamour was added via a pair of silver leather slacks; the same metallic texture in a shade of bright gold graced a midi pencil skirt worn with a crazy kitten-printed blouse, while a classic knitted cardigan, coated in gold, looked cool contrasting with a ’50s-inspired black vinyl circle skirt.
