“We’ve got lots of novità!” chirped JJ Martin, presiding over the happy chaos of her atelier, where an all-women team was busy prepping for the Pre-Fall sales campaign. She has every reason to be upbeat. Her label is expanding its offer as well as its distribution. In fact, it’s turning into a mini empire, encompassing ready-to-wear, home textiles, and tableware. No small feat for an independent niche company, born almost by chance. “It all happened rather spontaneously. We’ve been unconventional in so many ways,” said Martin, who before becoming an entrepreneur was a fashion journalist. Judging by the number of retailers queuing for orders, that unconventionality has been managed quite efficiently, and it’s clearly paying off.
But back to the novità. This season Martin has introduced quite a few new additions to her collection of vintage-flavored dresses, which are typically printed in Mantero Seta’s archival motifs and bold, saturated colors. Sixties-inspired, elongated car coats; soft tailored blazers; and masculine pantsuits, as well as tracksuits with ribbed knit trimming, were all firsts for the collection, together with updated length options. “One piece of feedback from our clients was that we do dresses only for tall girls, so I’m doing shorter versions now,” said Martin. Fancy frills and ruffles also made a debut, sprouting from necklines and accordion pleats, and giving a fun twist to the ’70s-inspired bell sleeves that graced silk turtlenecks. The list of smart additions included color-blocked options, which will be welcomed by women for whom an allover print is a bit too much. And she experimented with new fabrications, including sensuous dévorés, thick viscose sable satins, and chic hammered silks.
Martin’s plate seems quite full these days, but knowing her boundless energy, it’s easy to guess that something else is in the cards. Indeed. A collaboration with Goop is due out next June; La DoubleJ is working with Gwyneth Paltrow and her team to come up with a few pieces in exclusive prints for the e-tailer—from one female entrepreneur to another. “We’re very excited about this,” said Martin. Who could blame her?
