How can the idea of nostalgia be made meaningful for a generation that seems to have a total lack of memory? And how can the concept of status be revisited and translated for a progressive fashion mind-set? These ponderous topics were on creative director Paul Surridge’s mind while working on the Just Cavalli Pre-Fall collection; he’s trying to give a better defined and more relevant character to Cavalli’s little sister line, putting the label in a broader contemporary perspective. “Even between tribes and subcultures, the idea of status still runs strong,” he mused. ”So I started from the concept of uniforms and the codes defining the identity of clans and young social groups.”
Just Cavalli’s heritage vocabulary doesn’t lack for identity: Rock, glamour, rebellion, and a provocative sort of sexiness have always been its key words. Surridge’s filter on this rather straightforward lexicon is sophisticated and nuanced, while keeping the collection’s unconventional spirit alive. “It’s about giving an attitude and not a clichéd replica; it’s bringing up memories without being too literal. It’s a soft exploration through all those themes,” he said.
Traditional JC tropes were given an upscale, polished feel; archival references were tempered and packaged into a modern, versatile wardrobe, where even sporty or street accents were handled lightly. Case in point was the treatment of denim, one of the label’s most recognizable staples. The utility fabric was infused with an extravagant, slightly historical feel, as in an elongated boxy jacket paired with a miniskirt, quilted and studded to be reminiscent of a regal Elizabethan portrait. Yet the collage-printed neoprene thigh-high hybrid cowboy boots–leggings that complemented the outfit looked progressive enough to erase any soupçon of mellow nostalgia.
The idea of reworked status staples was suggested in a white classic bouclé skirtsuit, the jacket trimmed with multiple thin gold chains for a mild rock flair, while tartan was translated into a graphic windowpane motif in a loose-fitting robe coat, taken slightly out of context with a ’20s-inspired fringed hem.
The collection offered solutions diverse enough to address the inclusivity factor, appealing to a broader spending demographic. A good example was a generously cut porcelain blue wrap coat, peak-lapeled and billow-shouldered, powerful looking without being ostentatious: “It’s not about power dressing anymore, but about feeling confident, letting the femininity come through,” Surridge said. Consider that coat a Just Cavalli investment piece.
