There was a touching post-nuptial note to Henry Holland’s Pre-Fall 2019 collection. The London designer married his partner of eight years in December, and the Savoy collar of his wedding suit made its way into the brand’s latest suiting designs. That capsule has been a huge hit for Holland since it was first introduced for Resort (its pin-striped iteration has been worn by practically the entire Kardashian clan). He clearly likes keeping things familial: The bold stripe at the heart of this season’s exuberant offering borrowed from a souvenir blanket picked up by his mum when she climbed Kilimanjaro. “I love its use of color. There are so many tones in one motif,” he said of the design’s fearless palette, which was echoed elsewhere in a tie-dye take on animal print.
These fabrications were, apparently, an introduction to the concept that’s central to Holland’s forthcoming ready-to-wear show: “I was thinking about an urban nomad who draws on so many global references from East and West,” he said. All those reworked tie-dyes and blanket weaves, which appeared on second-skin tops, hoodies, maxi shirtdresses and a collection of performance swimwear made in collaboration with Speedo, lent a laid-back air to the proceedings which was suggestive of the clubby days of the ’90s. “People have that instant association when it comes to all things tie-dye,” said Holland of the surfer styling. “It seems to really resonate.”
One thing is clear: Holland is still in the throes of channeling his epic creativity towards a newly unified brand vision. “In the past, we’ve jumped from one idea to the next,” he said. “Now, it’s not about reinventing the wheel every few months, it’s about an evolution.” Judging by what was on offer here, he’s slowly but surely finding that flow.
