Gucci’s Pre-Fall collection was presented without the fanfare to which the brand’s global audience has become accustomed. Indeed, it was a rather straightforward affair: an esplanade of 86 exquisitely dressed mannequins displayed in the company’s so-large-you-need-a-bicycle-to-get-around-it Milan hub, without press notes or a member of the design team to offer perspective. Creative director Alessandro Michele did not make an appearance. But you know what? It was actually kind of refreshing having the chance to experience Michele’s creations one-on-one, in close-up, since in Gucci’s mega-productions the clothes can sometimes feel like extras in a Cinecittà blockbuster, swept up by the magnitude of the visual narrative. If the sheer size of the collection was daunting, there was plenty to like.
As always, since Michele took over here, every outfit was treated as a sort of mini story unto itself, as if it were born out of a fashion egg already perfectly formed: styled, accessorized, and ready to fly out of stores at rocket speed. Prominent styles included caftans—the best in exotic, rich brocades—and three-piece printed suits in which blazers were worn over elongated tunics for a new layered silhouette. Overall, the tailoring was strong: sharp-shouldered and slim-fitted with an ’80s flavor. Tweed bouclé was the predominant texture, spongy and supple; it looked delightfully odd printed with the Gucci logo or paired in rather idiosyncratic combos with sequins and chenille. The evening offering was spectacular, featuring Poiret-inspired velvet tabards embroidered with starry skies, and dramatic, fit-for-the-fairies ball gowns dripping with sequins.
The lookbook’s images, staged with sloppy-looking tourist-character extras snapping pictures in the background, were shot by director and photographer Harmony Korine in the archaeological parks of Pompeii and Herculaneum, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites in southern Italy. A limited-edition book is slated to be published next year, part of a project that continues Gucci’s commitment to sustaining and promoting cultural heritage sites around the world.
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